BORDEAUX KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Bordeaux, France is truly a red wine lover’s dream. With a beautiful city center and 6,000 châteaux surrounding it, it’s hard not to feel like you were swept up into a picture-book fairy-tale… But with poor planning, you could end up feeling more like a frog than a princess!
How to get there: You can fly directly into Bordeaux Mérignac International. Although if you’re flying from the US, you’ll likely have a layover. Instead, we flew into Paris Charles de Gaulle and then took the train from the airport train station straight to Bordeaux Saint-Jean. It will take around 3.5 hours. Another option would be to take the train from Paris Gare Montparnasse which is only a 2 hour train, but by the time you take a taxi or the RER B and a metro line, it’ll end up around 3.5 hours anyway. But if you’re coming from the center of Paris, this is a great option. These prices do increase as you get closer to your date, and they will never go down like airline tickets. So when you’re sure, book it! You can book train tickets here.
When to go: We went in September which happened to fall right during harvest time. This was cool because we got to see the grapes being processed, however some châteaux close during this time of year. I would recommend anytime between May and October so you have nice weather to walk around.
How long you should go: We arrived late afternoon into Bordeaux. The next day we spent a day in Saint-Émilion and had dinner in Bordeaux. Then we drove and did two days in the Médoc region, staying at a bed and breakfast in Paulliac. So, what would I change? If we did it again, I’d probably do AT LEAST a full day in Bordeaux city. There was so much to see in the city, and we didn’t have time to do any of it! Then I would spend whole day and maybe even night in Saint-Émilion. Lastly, 2 to 3 days in the Médoc region or another region to taste some wine!
Getting around: If you’re looking to just do Bordeaux city center and maybe St. Emilion, there’s no need to have a car. They have trams and trains that can get you where you need to be. If you want to travel outside the center, like out to see the castles and vineyards, you’ll need a car. We rented a car through Sixt rental car and picked it up at the Bordeaux train station. Another day we did a private driver booked through Wine Paths.
Bordeaux wine basics: There are both red and white wines in Bordeaux, but they’re known primarily for their reds. The red wines are made from of a mix of cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes. There’s a big river that splits Bordeaux into the left bank and the right bank. Generally, the left bank will have more cabernet sauvignon, so they are powerful and rich. There you’ll find Médoc and Paulliac. The right bank will be higher in merlot, a softer blend usually ready to drink earlier than the left bank. There you’ll find Saint-Émilion. But something you won’t find on the right bank is châteaux that are “Grand Cru Classé” this was a ranking system established in 1855. But the catch? If you didn’t pay the fine to be reviewed in 1855, you can never be considered a “Grand Cru Classé.” This classification makes for more expensive wine, kind of like paying for a brand name. But there are plenty of “generic” brands that are just as good!
How to choose your chateaux: First of all, they call the wineries “châteaux” because château means castle in French. And boy, there are a lot of castles! We were a bit overwhelmed by the options and on a time crunch so we booked through Wine Paths, a third-party booking agency. She really tailored the experience to fit our group specifically. If, however, you want to take on the challenge, make sure you book your wine tours plenty of time in advance. Also, pull out your google maps and make sure you’re giving yourself enough time to get from one place to another.
Where to sleep: In Bordeaux city, make sure you stay somewhere in the center. These are mostly all pedestrian streets which is really nice when you’re walking around at night. We stayed at this apartment we found on booking.com which was lovely! When we traveled to Médoc, we stayed at this bed and breakfast which was so charming. But it really depends on which châteaux you’re visiting… some actually double as hotels like Château La Tour Carnet… Although after a full day of red wine tasting, I’m sure all you’ll need is a blanket!
If you have any questions feel free to email me: planetochampagne@gmail.com.